Wanchai Red Lights
If Amsterdam is the city’s infamous red light district in the capital of Europe, Wanchai in Hong Kong is considered to be one of the city’s Red Light District in Asia.
There are numerous bars and strip joints in the area which is still popular with tourists and visiting US sailors - who arrive on Fenwick Pier.
Wanchai has gained its reputation as the noisy polluted streets, too crowded, old buildings & Mahjong centres crammed with aggressive gamblers. However Wanchai was made famous as the location of the 1957 novel and 1960 film The World of Suzie Wong. My dad told me, during the 70’s, Wanchai was the most popular place, and still is, for Dining & Entertainment. Every Filipino musicians & singers carried on displaying a high degree of performances in many bars. As one British writer noted about the number of Filipino musicians around Asia, “They’ve no originality, but they’re wonderful imitators of every Western singing style you can name.”
However, prostitution is regulated around here & licensed brothels in many corners of the streets. I spent my lazy afternoon with my N70 camera witnessing US service men who gathered around Delaney’s, Joe Banana’s, The Wanch and Carnegie’s, few of the more popular bars around.
Simply take a walk to this area anytime of the day and you will find some pretty girl with a cute tatoo sitting in a storefront of each bars, some pretty/unpretty, tall/short, plump/slim and hot/not-so-hot women of all ages (legal that is!). Must keep in mind not to ever take a picture of these girlies or you will get a big punch in the face. I have to be honest, the thought of walking through a street with prostitutes on display sounds a bit of both between alarming and exciting. I actually felt a little bit sad at the same time everytime I see these nice young girls simply making the statement: “It does not matter who I am. If you want a female anatomy, I have one available”, you know those kind of impression. Maybe I am over-reacting. But Wanchai is a fun district. This is not always be the place about girlie bars.
It’s a very diverse environment. The Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre is located here. So obviously, Wanchai is one of the popular tourist spot in Hong Kong for mainland visitors and also the location of the flag-raising ceremony which occurs daily and in a special form on Chinese National Day and other occasions.
I headed on to get a taste of Filipino BBQ, a Pinoy restaurant reminiscent of the street carinderias, literally small, nondescript place named, Kusina ni Mang Ambo, one of Wanchai’s numerous eateries of good place to eat, if you really missed eating Filipino food. I really don’t like it there as it is a low profile garbage site to get a quick lunchbox.
I went home early as it gets so crowded with so many swearing young White Ass marines trying to figure out between a girlie bar or a 7-11 shop to buy a can of beer.
BTW, all pictures taken from my N70 Nokia phone. Such an amazing features indeed.
Hollaback Girl
by: Gwen Stefani
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Makes me nostalgic, K! This is my home town. Thank you for a great post.
Hey Jack, I din’t realize you’re from HK. So the picture brings back memories of your ‘hometown’. Do you still come and visit here?
HK is a great multicultural city and I like living here.
nice pics K!
suprise and buy me tickets for a getaway in beautiful HK, can? I am so in need of a vacation!!!
have a great weekend k!
btw, u have been tagged!!!!
Haven’t been here Consuela? Drop by HK if you visit your hometown in Malaysia next time. I’ll tour you around for free. Don’t worry, I’m cheap for a bite at McDonalds.
A Tag? I’ll do that on my next post. I’m not good at vocabularies but will give you my share.
Happy weekend!
I haven’t been back yet, since leaving in 1976. I get to travel a lot everywhere else but the opportunity to return home just hasn’t surfaced. At least I can still get back: there was a time when we worried about what the Communists would do to the place after 1997.
I think I’m naive, people have been asking me the same question like “is it no longer good to live there?” It will always be an issue to those people who left HK before/after 1997. It literally hasn’t ‘changed’ around here - nothing strange at all. Oh wait, yeah we have now Disneyland, the new Airport, new ID system, new BIG buildings like the IFC and the Four Seasons hotel, new MTR connecting routes.
In some ways, the living here for a westerner is easier than ever, with better, more affordable housing, better transport, etc but Politically, I have no idea really but I’m sure you’re updated with the news. I’m not even a “westerner” but I kinda like it here.
I certainly want to get nostalgic one of these days and do a return trip, which was always my intention—but when you emigrate as a child, you don’t have much say in things! I left before the MTR was even built, and I think they had just added new lanes to the underwater tunnel. Shatin was mostly uninhabited!
Man, that was pretty long time ago. I think the MTR was built in 1979 four years prior to completion. Hahaha sounds like I made a research on this. I think they launched these underground trains in Kowloon area then a year later, they created the crossing harbour tunnel to HK Island.
Amazing isn’t it? I will always love the TRAMCARS. During my FOB days, I travel between Central to Quarry Bay, where my family used to live, for more than 10 yrs. Since they’re no longer here, I moved to Wanchai and it’s only 5mins walk to my office so I rarely use these trams now.
Wanchai reminds me of Burgos st. in Makati Ave A LOT!!!!
Burgos St? Iba yung sa Malate? hahaha when I think of girlie bars in Mla that’s what comes in mind. Lakwatsa in Manila around these kind of spots, I’d be totally needing local bodyguards eh wala akong alam sa Manila except for MEGAMALLS, RUSTANS and QUIAPO Church (dont know why I find it intriguing to visit and pray there).
Yeah, I am pretty ancient (well, compared to you!)! The MTR was in the late 1970s: you are right. When I left they were planning it, or about to start it. The place does change quickly, although I guess if you remember the main streets you can still find your way around. I had family in Wanchai; I was in Homantin.
I live near The Hopewell Centre, (the one with the revolving resto) probably you were still here when this building used to be first tallest bldg in HK before China Bank Tower. MTR is the coolest transport system around here, so convenient to everything even if the airport is already miles away from the City. I think the next MTR project is going to be the Sheung Wan-Kennedy Town lanes, not sure but who knows?
Don’t know where Homatin is, Tsuen Wan train lane maybe?
talo dyan ang banners sa Gigolo! this easter season, their show’s title reads: “Eggs Hunt”. hahahaha.
hahaha I know where that is. But hey diba kasali yung sa RECTO for RED ZONE district ng Manila? I think it’s scattered around…. but where can you find the decent one?
Those days when my friends still studying in Manila, overheard the most popular disco in PINAS, was it Eutopia? No. I forgot the name, tambayan daw nina Ruffa nun? Ok, Ruffa? As in Guiterrez? Bektas whatever? Dun sya napunta.
Bugok ako sa Mla in terms of “hang-the-night-outs”.
The Hopewell Centre I remember because to a kid, that revolving restaurant is a lot of fun! But when I left, the Connaught Tower was the tallest building, and I think it held on to that record for a while. Homantin, or Ho Man Tin, is just north of Kowloon proper; used to be quite a nice, upper-middle-class neighbourhood though I understand it has really headed downhill in the last 30 years. Homantin is on a train line, but can’t remember which, but the Tseun Wan line rings a bell. We used to get around everywhere on the light buses (14-seat in those days) and cabs as they were dirt cheap, and never caught the train, so I can’t really comment based on childhood memories.
I think it’s the 16 seater mini-bus also known as maxicabs with reckless drivers? I usually utilize these bus when I work on my early shifts to go to work and it scares the hell off me when the driver hit narrow roads. You know that right?
Yes, they increased to 16 seats some time in the 1980s. The drivers weren’t too bad in the 1970s, but I guess they could have got worse! The whole story was the original bus drivers went on strike and some independents got together, just to help out the city. Eventually the colonials thought, ‘Why don’t we sanction these indies and fire the guys who are on strike?’ And thus the light buses came into being.
However bad they are in HK, I’ll bet the bus drivers in Seoul are worse. Those guys have more of a death wish than Charles Bronson.
Few days ago these mini-bus drivers went on strike about holiday compensation & salaries. Some of these drivers are stubborn and they just need to change that. But one of the best in Hong Kong is the wide choice of public transport, it amuses me (I think the best in the world). Now added to that, minibuses operators are now complaining about the growth of non-franchised bus services, these are shuttle buses that pick-ups passenger from a housing estate stations to shopping centres and they are taking business away from these minibuses or the taxis in that case.
Seoul are worse? How about the Philippines jeepney drivers? I would say they are everywhere. I think the government impose a rule on speed standards and these fast-driving drivers are now being monitored by many complaining passengers.
It’s ironic, because the minibuses began as a renegade operation much like the modern shuttles!
I have not been to the Philippines, but I have heard about the jeepney drivers being totally mad! But the Korean bus drivers are worth experiencing: there are few thrills like going through red lights down a busy Seoul street at 80 km/h.
Alright I’ll stick with the subway unless you’re not travelling during the rush hours. But it’s the perfect way to go around HK and you are able to use your cellphones (however, hidden charges for tunnels & subways are a bit expensive). Overall, it’s the safest, immaculately clean and convenient.
One of these days, I’ll have to try the subway. Seoul’s one is punctual and clean, so I have an impression of what it might be like back home. But I need to do as many light buses, double-deckers and taxis as possible for nostalgia’s sake!
BTW, K, I have one of my team going to HK—do you have any advice for him on what he could see? (You might even want to meet him.)
Hi Jack, I think this one would help. Oh no Jack, I would luv to but I’m a sucker for tourists. Kidding. When is he coming?
Cool, I’ll pass that on, thank you. Doug is coming May 17. His web site is http://www.detunephotography.com—really great guy. Part-Japanese so he is very appreciative of all Asian cultures.
Oh wow he’s a photographer, part-japanese & visiting HK. Is he coming on a pleasure trip or to attend some galleries & photography conference?
Partly for pleasure but he’s trying to make it relevant and meaningful for as many people as possible (I guess that includes me—he is a nice guy!) so he is working as much as he can. Come to think of it, Doug always works. One of the hardest working guys I know!
His works looks amazing. At least the pleasure goes along together. He should enjoy it here, esp for the first time visitor.
I think he will find it a more interesting crossroads of cultures. He has been to Japan to see his grandparents so he has had a dose of a full-on Asian city. But he felt that because he is half-English, there was a bit of “people looking twice
And don’t forget the food. HK is crowned winner for culinary. Remember this city is growing its reputation as the Culinary Capital of Asia. It’s probably why I love the chinese fried noodles.
True. It took years in New Zealand before the restaurants were even near comparable after I got here! Fried noodles rock! Especially yee mein.
There’s one Chinese Restaurant in Happy Valley near the horseracing field where they cook asuper delicious fried noodles. I forgot the name but it’s pretty much popular for tourists and locals alike. At work, I feast on them for breakfast.
I have to remember this …! I can only really remember my own ’hood and a few places in downtown Kowloon, and on the island. I can’t even remember their names but I reckon I could find them (I have a pretty good instinct for direction).
I’m no Kowloon fan. I mean, I seldom go there by myself. Sometimes I save some pennies for the ferry and watch the beautiful backdraft of HK Islands. It is one of those that I truly enjoy being here. Once I get there, I walk just nearby and end up at Mong Kok. Remember the night market where you can buy fakey goodies on the street? It’s still one of the highlites for tourist, infact they are not cheap anymore but still fun to be around those area - too many people tho’.
I know those areas in Kowloon well. They used to be a lot nicer, from the sounds of it. I know my own neighbourhood has turned into a bit of a hole—which does quell my desire to visit it somewhat. I didn’t cross over to the island that often. Good to know which areas are safe and which aren’t—I always expected if I were to return I would be bringing a girl to show her where I was from.
It’s fun when you go out with group of friends - esp the first timers. Those stalls steals your ‘night’ away. One pleasant place to visit is the Stanley Market, take note, tourist do come for a beer on a sea-view area. It’s the expat’s hang out away from ‘from the city in the city’ itself. You should go there too.
I remember the Stanley Market (vaguely) from my childhood so I would likely go there. I would probably be like a big kid revisiting everywhere!
Exactly. That fishing area turned into a tiny city. They have a huge department store there and nice houses too. For expats I may say. You take the bus or taxi (but don’t ever use taxi by any means) , the only way to get there. I think they still kept that old temple nearby - it’s a place to pray for the Goddes of the Sea and whatever you call them. There are variety of restaurant with sea views, alfresco ambience. Amazing place to visit really.
Very fascinating. Are taxis not good these days? In the ’70s they were pretty reliable and the drivers were honest.
Oh taxis, you can never missed an important meetings. Sometimes they are nice. some are bad and I think those were the drivers on your time, they’re getting old but don’t argue with them or you’ll get a FOO GAI reply. hahahaha.
I might have to take the cab for some of my journeys just to relive it all! I remember when they were nearly all Datsun 220Cs but occasionally you would find a Mercedes-Benz. Ah, I think I can handle the cabbies, being a “local” (albeit one who hasn’t been back in a heck of a long time!).
I think it’s still the Datsun, not sure as I really never pay attention - but it’s a big taxi for 5 pax. Passengers back and front uses safety belts now and there’s a huge fine if you don’t wear them of course. Yup you can handle the cab pretty easy once you’re here.
In the movies they still seem to be Nissan Cedrics (formerly Datsun)—or whatever they are called now. I would feel “naked” without a seat belt: I have become accustomed to them here.
The seat belt rule is strict. The drivers would scream back at you if you missed putting them on even if you are at the back of the seat. Safety first.
Well, it’s not a bad rule to have. I would do it just as a matter of course. I might not do it in Italy, as the drivers think you are insulting them!
Sometimes I break the rules, maybe I am just being stubborn. Maybe when I know how to drive myself, I’d be worried.
It’s possible. Today alone I confronted two drivers who stopped suddenly—which you would notice from the driver’s seat.
On my average review of the safety here, I find it shocking that the mini-bus has the highest percentage of all fatal accidents. The Gov’t respond to these was very serious, minibuses are now equipped with seatbelts. However, passengers ignore these all the time. I don’t think people are disoriented that these seatbelts are very useful. I haven’t seen one really buckle up their seat when I travel at this buses. While I do that all the time, the person sitting next to me would think I’m crazy.
The thing I’m most afraid of in everyday’s life is one of the most common, are car accidents - no matter where you are in the world.
Seat belts certainly make sense. We have fewer bus accidents here so these calls have been made, but not taken seriously. I hope we won’t have another fatal bus accident otherwise we might see a similar response from our government.
What usually causes these minibus accidents? Is it driver error?
I think the roads are getting smaller around here, well obviously in HK Islands. If you travel between Central to North Point, the traffic jam is overflowing. Or reckless drivers running on a red light? It goes with the taxis too.
Well I think HK is pretty law-and-order kind of place. Or is it Singapore?
I have been to Singapore in recent years and thought it particularly well run and civilized—they even have a statue of Confucius there, so we know whose principles are calling the shots! My memory of Hong Kong was quite orderly—sort of organized chaos—so back in the day no one ran red lights. Now, Seoul and Bangkok, those are very different!